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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning names. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.